How to sew a Collar and Lapel of a Tailored Jacket

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Atelier Saison
Published at : 23 Dec 2020
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"How to sew and attach a collar and lapel Tailored Jacket tutorial"


Stick stay tape on front bodice
Fold crease line on lapel
Stick stay tape on back bodice
Plain seam under collar and collar stand
Plain seam upper collar and collar stand
Seam opening upper collar and collar stand
Top-stitch (seam opening) upper collar and collar stand
Top-stitch (overlapped seam) under collar and collar stand
Plain seam upper and under collar
Cut seam allowance and Grading it
Seam opening the collar and turn it out
Plain seam front bodice and facing
Attach the collar to the lining bodice
Attach the collar to the main bodice
Cut & Slash the seam allowance of the edge of front and lapel, and collar
Staystitch the edge of front curve
Seam opening and overlapped seam the collar
Seam opening the edge of front lapel
Make the pattern of the part of curve
Press the edge of front curve
Turn the facing out and Press
Hand blind stitch the neckline
Hand blind stitch the lapel crease line




It is a ladies jacket with full lining.
Jackets are hard to sew compared to shirts and skirts anyway.
For example, in case of shoulder, there are sleeve head wadding and shoulder pads and it is completely different from the sleeve of the shirt.
But that is why it will be what a beautiful shape.
The feeling when wearing is also the best.

Design specification of the jacket is a waist pocket with the flap most commonly used.
Back vent, front dart and functioning sleeve buttons.
The chest pocket and the inner pocket are removed.
As I did not want to take as much time as possible at filming, it is as simple as possible, but still have the necessary parts.
As for bound welt pocket already uploaded, please refer it if you need.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7CsgQqNUf_8

Manual works (hand invisible stitch etc...) is packed.

The jacket is really a treasure trove of technique.

The main cloth is Flannel, and lining, sleek, interfacing are two kinds.


-Sewing specification-
Fabric : Flannel
Full lining
Flap waist pockets
2 darts (Front 2)
Back vent
Functioning sleeve buttons


*** You can download the pattern in PDF, it is free. ***
Please refer to it.
http://ateliersaison.jp/pg189.html

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BGM composition : Button hole craftman

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Paris collection, Tokyo collection etc... Sample garment factory Atelier Saison.
We have sewed at Shibuya-ku, Jingumae in Tokyo for more than 35 years.

#HowToSew #Collar #Lapel
how to sewsewingthread

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